What is Pachacamac?
Pachacamac is an ancient archaeological site located 40 km from the city centre of Lima, Peru. Pachacamac was first built by the Lima Culture in 200 AD; later on, other civilizations arrived and took control of the site, adding more buildings to what was already there. Finally, in 1450, the Incas arrived and claimed Pachacamac as their own. One of the main contributions from the Incas is the Temple of the Sun, which was made in the honour of the god Inti.
The site was plundered and abandoned by Spanish conquerors in the 16th century. It was only until the 19th and early 20th century when archaeologists began to explore and excavate Pachacamac, unearthing many of the ruins we see today.
Its name, Pachacamac, means "He Who Created the World", in reference to the two-faced Wari god.
How to get to Pachacamac
While Pachacamac is just outside of the city of Lima, it is still accessible by car, taxi or bus. Some hotels or hostels offer day tours to Pachacamac, but for those who don't have that as an option they can still visit the site on their own.
Taxis will most definitely take you to Pachacamac without any problem, but because it is quite far away the fare will be pricey. Since taxis in Lima don't have meters, the price varies depending on the driver. Before getting into a cab, be sure to ask the driver up-front what the cost will be; if it seems reasonable, fine, but if not you're allowed to refuse and hail another taxi. The locals do this all the time. The fare usually depends on the distance covered, rather than the time it takes to get there.
Getting to Lima by bus is cheaper, but longer and more complicated. The buses you need to take depend on your starting point. Ultimately, you'll want to reach Avenida Alfredo Benavides; the buses that lead to Pachacamac pass along this large avenue, and they are appropriately labelled “Pachacamac” on the side. Before boarding one of these buses be sure to ask the driver or the man who handles the tickets if it is heading to the Pachacamac museum, as some of these buses simply go to the Pachacamac village, which is further away. If it is heading where you want to go, then step aboard and get settled in for a long ride – it takes about forty-five minutes to an hour to reach the site. The bus ticket to Pachacamac costs around 2.50 soles.
Getting around the ruins of Pachacamac
When you first enter Pachacamac you will notice a small green area near the ticket booth – this is where the llamas that live on the site go to graze. If you're lucky you might already see them out and about when you arrive.
After paying for your ticket (which is around 6 soles) you then enter the small on-site museum that contains artifacts that were discovered during the excavations. Behind glass display cases you will see ceramic pots, old rugs, wooden figurines, and a diorama of what the site looked like before the Spanish conquerors came.
(It should be noted that while a guide is offered to help you navigate the museum and the site, it is not necessary to have one accompany you, especially if you are on your own.)
After exiting the museum you can now walk around and see the ruins. There are security guards at the site, and they will ask to see your ticket and confirm that you have visited the museum first. After they have checked your ticket, you're free to roam around at your leisure. While Pachacamac is quite big, you don't need a car to travel along the dirt roads; you can walk around and take your time.
The first thing you'll notice about Pachacamac is that it is vast and desolate. It isn't like Machu Picchu, which is filled with lush greenery and crawling with tourists. You can spend ages walking around Pachacamac without running into another living soul. If you are looking for somewhere quiet to get away and explore, then this is it.
As you walk around Pachacamac, you will see workers digging through the ruins; even though the place is open to the public, there are still things left to uncover. Different parts of the site are labeled with signs to give you an idea of what they used to look like before the conquerors arrived. As you go further up the hills, you will see a small village in the background, with colourful houses stacked on top of one another.
The Temple of the Sun is located at the highest point of Pachacamac, on a hill that overlooks the Pacific ocean. Walking right to the top takes some effort, but it pays off. Even with Lima's perpetually foggy sky, the view is incredible.
After you've finished exploring Pachacamac, you then retrace your steps and head back to the where the museum is. Attached to the museum is a small lounge area, where you can buy snacks and use the bathroom. There are also tables where you can buy handcrafted goods.
Then the sun begins to go down, the llamas are secured in their enclosure, and it's time to head home.
Source: The Archaeological Complex of Pachacamac
Holly Fabre - Holly is a Canadian writer who has spent over a year traveling throughout South America. She currently lives in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
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